So, today was the big day. The beautifully planned road trip. Naturally, the universe said “cute plan you got there” and opened with a plot twist.
Our front door uses a smart key, but just as we were heading out, it decided to announce its battery had died and would no longer lock. “Seriously? Now? Of all mornings?” Cue frantic battery swap. We were already a few steps behind schedule.
And because fate adores cluster events, our slightly-late departure meant we dove straight into rush-hour traffic. Then came the final boss: the meeting point at the station. I—expert navigator that I am—provided the wrong exit.
So there we were, both on the phone, scanning the surroundings like confused meerkats.
“Wait, you’re at THAT exit?” “No, YOU’RE supposed to be at THIS one!” “Where ARE you?” “I’d love to know!”
We somehow managed to find each other, where the first exchange of the day was a tired laugh.
“Let’s… take it slow today.” “Yeah. Plans are plans; trips are trips.”
Thus, five minutes in, our meticulously constructed schedule entered Flex Mode.
First Destination: Tomioka Silk Mill
There were supposed to be a few fun pit stops on the way, but nope. Tomioka Silk Mill was non-negotiable, so we sped straight there.
Immediately Ambushed by an Enthusiastic Shop Guy
As soon as we arrived, an intense beam of “please talk to me” energy hit us from a souvenir shop. Of course, we got pulled in.
“Hey! You know silk? Touch it!”
What followed was an unstoppable Silk TED Talk. He was delightful, honestly. Hard to escape, but delightful.
Then came the highlight: a mysterious experience where he polished my nose with a silk brush. “See? Smooth, right? Smells a bit like milk soap but don’t worry about it!” I assure you, I *did* worry. But yes, the nose was surprisingly smooth. Unexpected win.
The schedule was already collapsing, but I regret nothing.
Finally Inside the Silk Mill
We eventually managed to enter the main attraction. A previously closed-off area had reopened, and our excitement spiked like a stock chart in 1999.
The exhibits were way cooler than expected. The steam engine display looked absurdly heroic. “This is incredible.” “I know, the weight of history is punching me in the chest.” It was very “grown-ups geeking out” energy.
We also discovered that the face-in-hole panel was blocked off, which was a strangely depressing form of disappointment we chose to enjoy anyway.
Imagining Life Back Then
The vibes of the factory, the dorms, the backgrounds of the instructors… You could see cultures blending in real time. Fascinating stuff.
Learning about how women gained access to education and how the work environment was organized made us go, “Honestly… some parts might’ve been more progressive than now.” We had feelings.
The day started in chaos, but visiting Tomioka Silk Mill was absolutely the right call.
At Last: The Matsutake Lunch
Leaving the mill, we headed toward the day’s main objective: Matsutake lunch.
In the car, we reminisced about the Silk Evangelist and his nose-polishing antics.
“Is matsutake actually better than king oyster mushrooms?” “That’s disrespectful. Apologize to the entire mushroom kingdom.”
The Grand Arrival of Mushroom Royalty
When the dishes arrived… “Wait… that’s a LOT of matsutake.” “I’ve never eaten this much in my entire life.”
The aroma alone could convert a skeptic. And the texture—pure matsutake glory. Though every now and then, it did impersonate an eringi. But in bulk, the overall effect was magnificent.
Next Time: The Sunglasses Incident and More Mild Chaos
The next chapter begins with the dramatic “forgot-my-sunglasses” episode. Then we wander around Unno-juku, and ultimately suffer the remorse of “we’re not going to make it to Konnyaku Park, are we?” A slow, peaceful, yet surprisingly eventful journey.
👉Read Part 2
👉Read the Planning Chapter
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